Dave and his Bike

Days 215 to 218.

Going home.

Day 215.

We decided that a late start would be in order today, based on the weather forecast – the later we leave, the better the weather. So breakfast was taken accordingly, and we re-grouped in the garage at 0945hrs.

We were on the road before 1015, and followed the Garmin route through into San Sebastián past the beautiful beach and along the bay. We then had to follow the main road for a while which had its problems, in that we were directed onto a dual carriageway with tunnels where no cycles are allowed. Navigating and detours along the valley took time and slowed us down, and the little rises and falls were energy sapping. Ian’s cold hasn’t improved much, so a decision was made to by-pass the first big climb of the day (400m of ascent) and stick to the more direct route.

At around 20km we crossed the bridge in Hendaye and I was back in France for the first time since September. It feels good to be back. I can also understand the language a lot more. Which is useful.

Once the photos had been taken, we set off along the coastal road, meeting Jane at the side of the road briefly before heading to St Jean de Luz for lunch. The sea views were lovely, as was the weather, and the coastal inlet villages we passed through were lovely, but probably ridiculously busy in the summer.

After lunch we picked up the cycle way. It started well. It didn’t last. The climbs we could cope with in isolation, but mixed with road closures, sections where we were supposed to walk, surfaces turning to potholes and gravel, we got a bit fed up. It was such slow going that we decided to use the D810 and just crack on to Bayonne.

It was busy. Much busier than I had anticipated, but then it is Easter week so the schools will be out and families on holiday. Bayonne centre is really nice. Having never been before I was pleasantly surprised.

Once through the city we followed the river Adour (which I’d never heard of) pretty much due east. It was flat, but somehow the tailwind had become a headwind. After the climbing of the last week (and this morning) it was still relatively quick though, and lots of cyclists are going in both directions – solos and in groups, which was great to see. Some very bad and aggressive driving was a bit disappointing, and totally unnecessary. We had also experienced too much of it in the morning traffic too.

20 kilometres passed very swiftly (which my legs will probably regret tomorrow), then we crossed the river at Peyrehorade and turned back on ourselves briefly before heading north to the chambre d’hôtes (B&B) where Jane was waiting. A quick shower, route and hotel plan, and we went for some utilitarian calories at the nearest place we could find (beginning with Mc…).

I haven’t really (or at all) mentioned the changes I’ve noticed since I got back to Europe. Initially it felt similar to me, as Spanish was still being spoken, but the culture is very definitely European – noticeable from such things as the food being eaten and the times of meals. France is different again. Just being here for a few hours and it feels French. It’s hard to describe.

It’s also been nice to see spring in full flow – bluebells at the side of the road, and trees in bud. Certainly very different to the beginnings of autumn in South America, and the very different landscape over there.

Tomorrow is a shorter day on the bike. I’ve chosen not to hammer two big days, but to enjoy the last bit of this epic trip and have three more manageable, relaxed days (if possible).

Distance cycled so far: 10,364km

Day 216.

It was raining when we got up this morning, and had clearly been doing so a lot during the night. We tried to dodge the showers in order to set off as there’s nothing worse than starting in heavy rain, and just about succeeded. It didn’t hold off for long, and heavy showers continued on and off for the whole day. That meant it was rain jacket on, rain jacket off constantly throughout the ride. The temperature got up to 18°C apparently, although it didn’t feel like it.

The French countryside passed by as we wound our way through pretty little villages, sadly with no amenities. Our planned coffee stop with Jane (27km) therefore became a quick refuelling station again and we moved on. Heavy showers and wet gloves doesn’t make for me taking photos, so the morning, and most of the afternoon wasn’t digitally recorded. Traffic was probably more than we’d anticipated on the small rural roads, and drivers had mixed ability and attitude as they either patiently waited and gave us space, or aggressively sped past and cut in as if to make a point.

Lunch was taken at the side of the road near a little village called Montaut – perfectly timed to keep us dry. Within five minutes of resuming we were soaked again.

Eventually the rain stopped, and we hoped it wasn’t going to resume before we reached the hotel. It gave me the opportunity to get some action shots of Gordon and Ian on the quiet roads approaching Mont-de-Marsan.

The centre of the town itself is nice. We stopped on the bridge in the centre for more photos before the final 5km push north to the ring road and our cheap chain hotel.

The hotel is cheap and cheerful. Bikes in our rooms is a big plus. The American country and western themed restaurant a short walk away was excellent; huge burger, nice fish and chips, very affordable. Route sorted tomorrow, and the weather forecast (at the moment) is favourable.

Distance cycled so far: 10,453km

Day 217.

It was sunny from the start today. A hotel breakfast, quick stretch and we were away just after 0900hrs. The morning was spent mainly zig-zagging on rural roads through the forest with the occasional short foray onto the main road to link them up. It was chilly to start with – long sleeves, armwarmers and gloves, but by the first refuel stop it had warmed sufficiently to lose some of the winter gear. The wind was the only slight disappointment – the forecast tailwind never really materialised, and instead we were treated to crosswinds and headwinds depending on our direction of travel.

The road surfaces varied across the whole spectrum, from super-flat new tarmac to really rough potholed tracks which vibrated through my seat and handlebars, making it uncomfortable on occasion.

The hamlets and villages we passed through were lovely. Well kept, with very old photogenic churches. The memorial to two SAS operatives who’d been dropped into Herré in 1944 was also worth stopping for. Jane had parked up for lunch in Durance, and by the time we arrived the sandwiches were already made, and lunch laid out on a picnic table. We ate in the warm sunshine. I could have stopped for the day then.

Having said that, despite finding it difficult to get back into a rhythm after stopping, the afternoon ride continued through lovely forested and villages. The fortified village of Vianne stood out as being quite spectacular.

The last 20 or so kilometres were on the tow path of the Canal Latéral à la Garonne. It was mainly very tranquil, with the occasional pedestrian or cyclist to contend with, which obviously increased the closer to Agen we got.

Unfortunately, with 4km to go Ian picked up a puncture. Half of a metal Allan key went through his back tyre with instant effect. A swift change of inner tube and we were moving again.

We took the footbridge over the river, then followed the riverbank down to the hotel where Jane had eventually managed to gain access to the digitally locked room (self check-in place).

Dinner was at the Hippopotamus Steak House. A good (if slightly overcooked) steak followed by a massive profiterole – the first dessert for a long time. It was a lovely way to spend the last evening of this amazing adventure.

Last day on the road tomorrow. Massive conflict of emotions going on. Also the weather forecast is shocking.

Distance cycled so far: 10,578km

Day 218.

Going home.

It wasn’t raining when we got up this morning, which was a real bonus. We opted for breakfast at a local boulangerie as opposed to the hotel, which worked well and provided us with pastry based calories to send us on our way.

We pretty much hit our target departure time of 0800hrs and navigated our way through Agen managing to avoid being hit by early morning motorists, despite their best efforts. It was a steady start. I was certainly feeling the cumulative effect of the last few days, and the rolling countryside added to my slowness. Being spectacularly overdressed also didn’t help – I had anticipated cold and rainy conditions which never materialised, so by the top of the first climb of the day I was soaked in sweat which didn’t really dry out all day. I took off my waterproof jacket, arm warmers, gloves and buff, and was much more comfortable from then on (but still very damp).

Our usual 40km coffee and refuel stop also didn’t happen, as Jane had left us to head straight home, and we didn’t pass anywhere suitable. Lunch was planned for Fumel at around the 60km mark, however even with our steady speed we were there far too early (1100hrs), so instead found a café and had a late coffee with a slice of pear tart.

By then we had passed ever increasingly familiar landscapes – the sanctuary on the hill in Penne d’Agenais, crossing the Lot river and were getting onto roads which I have cycled before. The rain still held off.

The road to Cuzorn from Fumel is bigger and busier than we are used to. Gordon had planned a quieter route, but I’d opted for the D710, so the traffic was my fault. By this time we had got into more of a rhythm and were buzzing along nicely to the bottom of the last proper climb of the day up to Besse.

The last seven months of cycling must have done something for my fitness (you’d like to think so). I was anticipating the climb up to and beyond Besse, and over the top towards Campagnac to be really tough. They weren’t easy, but I found them much more manageable than last time I’d ridden them. The views from the top were lovely. Trees and shrubs in bloom, and a distinct feeling of spring.

I stopped at the end of the road for a photograph of the hamlet sign, and then the journey was over. It feels very surreal to have completed something which I had been thinking (and apparently talking) about for the last 35 years or more.

I’d like to thank Ian and Gordon for dragging me up the hills and home from Madrid. Without them I would still (seriously) have at least two more days to go. It’s also been good fun having friends not only to ride with, but to also spend the evenings with. The same goes for Steve, who made Thailand and Malaysia much more fun for the six weeks (almost) that we spent together.

Obviously the biggest thank you goes to Jane, for not just letting me carry out this ridiculous escapade, but for joining me when she could and being an absolutely fantastic ‘soigner’.

Total distance cycled: 10,672 kilometres.