Dave and his Bike

Santiago, Chile.

Days 166 to 168.

Day 166. Part Two.

The flight was a bit late leaving. Not that it bothered me as I’ve loads of time at the other end to get sorted. The extra legroom, film entertainment and being fed three times in the 12hr 45min flight helped it to pass well. I dozed a bit, but didn’t really sleep. It was bizarre seeing the sun go down behind us, then see it come up again ahead making it feel like it is now tomorrow, yet then setting my watch back 14hrs and arriving in Santiago an hour before I set off.

Getting through customs into not just a new country, but a new continent for me, was quick and easy. A short on-line declaration was all that was required. And I got a stamp in my passport. Then it went a bit wrong.

I collected my luggage and bike box without a problem only to discover there was not a trolley in sight, so I had to drag the box out of the airport. I was not best pleased. In my tired and frustrated state I got a ‘taxi’ that was big enough for my bike. And then the attempted scam began. Once in the city, we stopped at the side of the road so that the driver’s ‘boss’ could charge me with his credit card machine as the one in the car didn’t work. A bit of an attempt at distracting me whilst credit cards were swapped failed miserably, culminating in me removing my kit from the car, and using a large amount of rather abusive language. Suffice to say I think I lost the plot a little bit. They got the message and left me standing at the side of the road. Fuming. Oh, and their card reader won’t be working any more.

Having dragged my bike box to the petrol station opposite I rested, composed myself a bit, and ordered another taxi. The lady owner was very kind (she could see I was a bit cross, and had probably heard the fracas), gave me a bottle of water and looked after my stuff whilst I used the ATM. She also gave me some advice as to where was good to visit, safe to eat etc. and apologised for the reception I had received in her country. Nice lady.

Unfortunately, once I had got to my hotel, I realised that I had lost my glasses. Oh well. Could have been worse. I have the ability to block my bank card in the app, so I have done temporarily as a precaution. It will also show if anyone has tried to use it.

The rest of the day was uneventful. I walked to a local mini-mart for some supplies as I didn’t want to go out for a meal later, had a shower, and watched TV for a bit. I was trying to stay up as late as possible. I made it until 2000hrs.

Day 167.

Santiago.

Tourism day. And hopefully a bit of recovery.

After sleeping sporadically throughout the night, I eventually surfaced just before 0900hrs. Comfy bed, and my back feels slightly better. Breakfast in the hotel, coffee and some stretching took me to about 1100 and then I walked the 2km into the city centre.

On the way the graffitied houses and small businesses gave way to the grander architecture of churches and official buildings before I arrived in the Plaza de Armas. To say it’s mid-week, it was busy. The Cathedral is quite subtle and not over-imposing – it is attached to buildings around it. Inside, it seemed very long. It is dedicated to The Assumption of Mary, and building commenced in 1748.

The plaza was also nice. A lot of greenery, benches and statues, meant that despite the number of people there it still seemed calm.

On leaving the cathedral I strolled around some of the pedestrianised shopping area, of which there is plenty, then returned to the plaza for a coffee. Once refreshed, I followed the walking tour map I had been given at the hotel; saw the presidential palace, university, and theatre, before heading up Santa Lucia Hill.

When climbing the hill, I realised that although it was 30°C I wasn’t sweaty and it didn’t feel oppressive, so the humidity is clearly lower here. The views from the top were great. The city under a bit of smog (not of Indian standards) and mountains in the distance. It whetted my appetite to the extent that I’m almost looking forward to getting into the mountains on my bike.

Lunch was a hot beef and cheese sandwich affair in the centre of town. Not great – I’ll try harder tomorrow. Then a steady walk back to the hotel. On all about a 10km walk.

The rest of the afternoon was spent re-building my bike (all good), and resting (actually trying to stay awake). So overall a good day. I feel like I’ve seen a lot of Santiago, and I’ve another day of exploring tomorrow.

Day 168.

Santiago. Again.

Not a bad sleep, but still awake just after 0500hrs. My body clock is gradually adjusting I think. At least I hope it is. It was sunny when I got up, but overcast by the time I’d had breakfast, although the forecast looked better by lunchtime. An earlier breakfast and coffee than yesterday, and I was out and about by 0930. I walked away from the city to the Quinta Normal park, and got the metro across town to Baquedano. From there a short walk took me to the ticket office for the funicular, where I queued for far too long for a ticket. The organisation was shocking. My ticket cost the equivalent of £4, which seemed like a bargain. I then realised that I’d been charged the over 60’s rate. Not flattering but I’ll take the discount.

After queuing again, I eventually got the train up to the top of Cerro San Cristobal and the statue of the Virgin Mary. The views from there of the city were brilliant, if slightly (and rather sadly) fogged by a pollution haze (but at least the weather forecast had been right). The backdrop of the Andes was spectacular. Looking at 5000m peaks in the distance makes me even more nervous about the next couple of weeks on the bike.

My ticket included the cable car over to the other side of the hill. It was more like a ski-lift gondola, which on the way out I had to myself. I stopped short of the car park at the bottom, choosing instead to look around the Tupahue station area and the Victoria Tower.

There were good views of North Santiago and the Gran Torre Costanera, which is the tallest building in South America (at the moment). I didn’t see much value in visiting it for the view from the top.

I retraced my steps to the top of San Cristobal, where I stopped for a much needed sit down – with a coffee. Once back at the bottom of the hill it was time for lunch. I found a great area with loads of restaurants which had a bit of a bohemian vibe to it (Bella Vista apparently), so I picked one at random and had a ‘local specialty’. It turned out to be chicken and chips. It was nice though.

The metro took me back to Quinta Normal, and a stroll around the park revealed the National Museum, which turned out to be the Natural History Museum. It was free entry, so I had a quick look around (couldn’t read the Spanish), then walked back to my hotel.

Having walked another 10km today I needed a rest. That meant an hours snooze in my room – actually I couldn’t keep my eyes open. A quick dash to the nearest ATM in the early evening before it got dark was fruitless, as it wouldn’t accept foreign cards. I gave up easily, grabbed a couple of empanadas and retreated to the safety and comfort of the hotel.

Another re-pack then took place. I’ve got to get back into the rhythm of things with regard the bike. The luxury of having Jane with me in Australia; not having to carry panniers, the option not riding etc., and it being English speaking made it feel more like a holiday, and I had my bike with me. South America is going to be different. Very different. It already is. It feels very much like the out-of-your-comfort-zone-adventure is starting again.

So it’s back on the bike tomorrow. Probably a short day to test my physical woes and not break myself too much. Not just yet anyway.