Dave and his Bike

Days 163 to 166.

Day 163.

Now that the cycling in Australia is (sadly) over, we have a couple of days doing some very obvious (and possibly some not so obvious) touristy things in Sydney.

As the crow flies, the Harbour Bridge is less than 10km (6 miles) from the campsite. You wouldn’t know it though, as it’s very green, peaceful and calm here, and surrounded by trees. About a kilometre away is the nearest underground station (North Ryde), so a 15 minute walk after breakfast got us on a train to the Harbour area – Barangaroo to be precise. We walked around the headland (through the reserve) to the Walsh Bay piers, and in doing so got our first glimpse of the Harbour Bridge.

It is an impressive feat of engineering, and another iconic structure that is recognised the world over. I’ve seen several things from National Geographic or my school textbooks on this trip, and they haven’t disappointed. Very shortly after, another came into view. Built between 1959 and 1973 the Opera House is one of the most distinctive buildings of the 20th century anywhere in the world.

After photos from several points along the way we somehow found ourselves in The Rocks and Circular Quay area. A cruise ship was alongside. I’m not taken with the idea of cruising (yet, having never been on one, but I really do think that the Ovation of the Seas rather spoilt the view somewhat. It is about the same size as the opera house, and I had to make an effort to keep it out of all of my photographs. I’m sure the 5000 guests on board love the view though. Apparently at this time of year there is one in the harbour most days.

We found somewhere for a coffee, and a bit of brunch (the best bacon and egg sandwich I’ve had so far), and chatted with a local guy whilst we did. A boat trip then seemed like a good option, since we were already at Circular Quay where the boats depart from.

We opted for a ferry again (as we did in Brisbane), and went about half an hour out to Watson’s Bay, where we disembarked and went for a walk round to Camp Cove Beach. It was packed. By far the busiest beach we’ve seen in Australia. It was easy to see why though; very pretty, sandy, and clear blue water.

The Watson’s Bay area was lovely. Nice beaches, bars and restaurants, lovely (expensive looking) houses, but a bit too busy for me. After a short while sitting on the steps at the back of the beach we went back to the ferry for the return leg. More great views of the city, this time with a replica of HMB Endeavour (Captain Cook’s ship) sailing in the harbour, along with many (very many) other boats – under both sail and diesel. It all looked a bit chaotic.

Our last task for the day was to cross the bridge. You can walk over the top of the superstructure – with a guide, a harness and a hard-hat. We enquired at the office, to be informed that it was $420 each. Needless to say, we stuck to the footpath, and got great views anyway.

A couple of kilometres further on and we were back on the Metro to North Ryde. At this time I have no idea what the cost of the transport has been today. You ‘tap on’ and ‘tap off’ the train/bus/ferry with your credit or bank card and find out a couple of days later what it cost i.e. when it appears on your bank statement. Good system. No tickets. Just the worry of how much you have spent.

By the time we’d been to the supermarket on the way back, then walked to the campsite, I’d done over 18500 steps. So much for taking it easy with my back. I hope it’s helped.

Day 164.

Not the best night – again. Shuffling about with a painful back which seems to be getting worse if anything. Hopefully a hotel bed will improve things.

Today we have to return the van, so last night we had a pack/re-pack of our panniers and rucksack. We also cleaned the van to the best of our ability, meaning Jane did it because I can’t. She did a great job, saving the cost of a car-wash and valet somewhere.

As much as my back is hideously painful, I’m still planning for the best-case scenario, so having changed my mind on bike tyres I need another one. First stop was a bike shop, so mission accomplished on that score; second stop was the Mariners Court Hotel. It’s in the heart of the city, near to the quayside in Wooloomooloo – handily placed for visiting Sydney. We stopped briefly to drop off our clobber, including the bike and box, which the staff happily looked after for us, then carried on south to the outskirts of the city.

We were earlier than scheduled for returning the van to Camperman, but they were quite unfazed and very relaxed about the whole thing. The lady inspecting the van put it down as ‘no damage’ (not that you’d know with the number of existing scrapes and dents), which is just as well as we haven’t caused any. She also said we’d get the deposit back within seven days. The cynical side of me will believe that when it’s in my account. Sad to see the van go though, we’ve become quite attached to it over the last six weeks.

We were now 24km south of the city with no transport. It seemed a waste to go all the way back in, then come out again, so we got an Uber to Bondi Beach which is south side.

It was always part of the plan to go there, and an excellent opportunity to make use of a sunny afternoon. It wasn’t as big or as busy as I had expected it to be, and again had a lovely relaxed atmosphere. I did go in the water, but didn’t swim due to my back, then laid on the sand for a short while and stretched out. It seemed to do some good, as walking afterwards was far more comfortable.

We opted for public transport back into the city. A bus, a train and a short walk through an older residential part of town got us back to the hotel.

Dinner was at an Italian restaurant very near to the hotel. It started with a G&T and was accompanied by a nice bottle of red. Lovely.

An excellent day overall. Admin tasks completed and a couple of hours in Bondi. What more could you ask for?

Day 165.

Hotel breakfast. Bonus. It was good too, especially the coffee.

We then packed up my bike. My back is loads better than yesterday, but still not brilliant (the bed is a marked improvement from the van), so Jane helped with bending and lifting. I’m much more relaxed about packing the bike than when I first did it. Leaving it until the day before is a novelty, and I think it gets easier to do with a bit of experience. Now it’s done it gives us the rest of the day to explore Sydney a bit more.

After resting my back for a while we ventured forth, and walked around to Mrs Macquarie’s chair – basically a rock on the harbour. Then through the botanical gardens to the Opera House and Circular Quay where a beer was beckoning.

I’d always thought that the Opera House was white. It isn’t. It is covered in coloured ceramic tiles which are even more impressive close up. Whilst we were there we looked at tickets to the opera, as La Traviata is on at the moment. Unfortunately the $70 tickets have all sold out for tonight, leaving only $380 options. We can’t stretch to that, so maybe next time…

After our short liquid refreshment we carried on to St Mary’s cathedral, then the ANZAC memorial, which is quite a monolithic and sombre structure, which in some ways is fitting. It’s also surrounded by tower blocks, which take away some of the impact and gravitas.

Another 20 minutes on foot got us back to the hotel. A bit more packing and preparation then took place, including me booking a hotel in Santiago for tomorrow night. I thought it was about time I did. Jane also made some last minute arrangements with Lottie before they meet up in Phuket.

We weren’t overly hungry, but fancied a bit of something to eat. Just at the bottom of the road there was a hot dog stand, which had been recommended by someone we met a few days ago. Harry’s Café de Wheels was started by Harry Edwards in 1936, and has been going ever since, feeding the likes of Frank Sinatra, Marlene Dietrich, Elton John, Richard Branson, Olivia Newton-John… the list goes on. The chilli dog was excellent, as was Jane’s chicken pie. Also a lot more affordable than a restaurant.

Back at the hotel we caught up with Liv in Iceland (https://wheresliv.com), and absolutely needed to finish the small bottle of whiskey which we have been carrying around. As well as the Whittaker’s chocolate. Not a bad last night.

Big day tomorrow. New country, new continent, different culture, different language and currency, and no wife to go with me. Oh, and a twelve hour flight to get there.

Day 166. Part One.

Alarm set for 0600hrs. We were awake by 0530 and up before the alarm with a cup of tea.

A hotel breakfast started the day well, and after the final bits of packing we were outside waiting for the Uber Max to arrive. Everything went smoothly to the airport, and my bags were wrapped, bike checked in meaning that we could (almost) relax, in no time. The downside was that Jane couldn’t check in and drop her bags off until much later, so we couldn’t both go through to the departure lounge. So we sat and waited.

I timed going through customs well enough that by the time I’d spent the outstanding dollars on muesli bars, my gate was open and I was boarding. Extra legroom seat – hopefully therefore a comfortable flight…

Australia has been bloody marvellous. It had surpassed any expectations I had, and I would come again soon given the opportunity. The variation in landscape down the east coast is fantastic. The people have all been so friendly and welcoming. There is so much more to explore – I feel like we have only just scratched the surface.