Dave and his Bike

Days 153 to 157.

Day 153.

Rest Day.

We had planned a rest day. Mainly because we thought it appropriate to visit another wine establishment and taste their wine.

After a very leisurely start and a breakfast of tea and pain-au-chocolat we drove a couple of kilometres up the road to the visitors centre and tourist information. The young lady pointed us in the direction of several small, family producers within a few minutes drive, and off we went. Having sampled a large, well known product, we were keen to look at something smaller, hopefully where the wine was made on site. The first place we pulled into, that clearly wasn’t the case and was another (smaller) retail park with ‘cellar doors’ for several different wines. We didn’t stop.

A few kilometres away we found the Bimbadgen estate. Set in vineyards and next to a well manicured golf course the setting was impressive. As soon as we walked through the door we were confronted by huge stainless steel vats, so rather obviously the wine was made here. We opted for the cheapest tasting menu, worked our way through seven wines of varying colours and grape varieties (some actually made in the Barossa Valley), and chatted with the lady serving us. By the time we had finished, it was time for lunch. By coincidence there was a wood fired pizza oven handily placed outside, so we partook.

The rest of the afternoon was spent at the campsite, reading, swimming, and generally lounging about. With a bit of route planning thrown in.

The evening consisted of cheese, more red wine, and video calls to family. Overall not a bad day’s work.

Day 154.

We woke to a beautiful sunny morning and sat in bed with a cup of tea. I slept better last night, and the anti-inflammatories must have done some good as the niggling back / hip pain I have had for a couple of days seemed to have improved.

I was away by about 0830hrs. Not bothered about being too early, as a coffee stop between 1000 and 1100 works well. With the sun on my back and a gentle rolling road I made good time to Wollombi through beautiful countryside of the Yengo National Park – so much so that after waiting five minutes for Jane I carried on and she caught me 10km later, rather conveniently I was just passing a lay-by which made the choice of where to stop very easy. We were so relaxed and enjoying the coffee that it was almost an hour later that I got back on the road.

About 5km down the road I felt very lethargic, and assumed that I hadn’t yet ridden off my ‘café legs’ following the break. Until I glanced down at my Garmin and realised I was on a 10% climb, which sort of explained things. For the next 10km the road went mostly upwards, with several steep sections intermingled with short bit of descent. Once on the ridge I thought there would imminently be something downhill, but no, 20 more kilometres of rolling road which at least added to my total ascent for the day. By the time we met at 70km I was in need of the rest, and even more so, something to eat. The remains of yesterday’s pizza was excellent.

Fortunately, and by chance, we had rendezvoused at almost the peak of the day’s climb. So when I resumed (another hour off), I only had a few short uphill sections before I dropped down through Kulnura and turned off onto Bloodtree Road (great name) and ultimately onto Wisemans Ferry Road. Where I dropped like a stone, losing nearly 300m altitude in 15km. Free mileage. Jane was waiting for me at 96km. Not a chance. 4km later we met again.

I was really enjoying the ride along the river, but since it was after 1600hrs we felt the need to get to the nearest campground a further 25km down the road. In some respects I wish we hadn’t bothered. The campsite is rubbish, but sadly the only one for miles around. For an extortionate 70A$ there is no drinking water, camp kitchen, WiFi or phone signal (not really their fault). The toilets and showers are dilapidated and filthy (absolutely their fault). It’s a shocker. We paid up and pitched up. As a comparison, last night was 40A$, where there were immaculate facilities, a camp kitchen (free gas and electric, fridge, kettle, toaster), and a swimming pool. And I thought that was expensive, but gave it some lea-way as it was in the very pricey Hunter Valley. Better luck tomorrow.

It almost escaped my notice, but it is Valentines Day today. Jane did us proud with a piece of fresh salmon and green beans, followed by carrot cake, and accompanied by a rather nice red. We will enjoy ourselves despite the campsite. We didn’t receive any anonymous cards.

It’s also five months since I set off from home.

Distance cycled so far: 8105km

Day 155.

It had rained during the night, and was overcast when we woke this morning. After our routine cup of tea we packed up and set off together for a change. Mainly because Jane was nervous about getting the river ferry on her own.

3km down the road we waited five minutes for the ferry to get back from the opposite bank. To my surprise, the ferry was free, and runs 24 hours a day. I love these little river crossings, and they remind me so much of India.

Once back on land after the very quick crossing we agreed to meet up in about 20km for coffee. The road was great, with the ups and downs you would expect. I don’t know whether I hadn’t recovered properly from yesterday, but I was finding the going enjoyable but tough. The short climbs and descents don’t allow you to get into a rhythm and I found them tiring.

The 20km stretch turned into 30, as there was nowhere suitable to stop. The pause for coffee wasn’t as long as our recent ones, and we continued to the next ferry a short way down the road at Sackville. Free again, and even shorter than the last one.

Lunch became the next objective, and we headed for Windsor. The explorers of the 19th century didn’t have much imagination: New South Wales, New England, Windsor, Richmond, Penrith, Gloucester – the list is endless. Jane stopped just short of the town which caught me out. I wasn’t expecting her to, wasn’t looking for her, and literally just rode past her – until she called my name. Not the first time (on this trip) that I’ve managed to not see her at all and ridden past. You’d think I’d recognise her by now. We stopped on the edge of town and picnicked in the shade.

An hour after lunch, at 72km, I stopped. No excuses really, I just felt drained and not able to tackle the next few kilometres of hills. We drove up to a viewpoint overlooking the countryside to the southeast, and could see the skyscrapers of Sydney in the distance. We carried on west for now.

Our stop for the night, and base for the next few days is Katoomba. Well known as being a central location for visiting the Blue Mountains. So well known in fact, that the campsite was full. After a chat with the lad on reception (from Bedfordshire), we are in a cabin tonight and on a campsite pitch tomorrow night. After that who knows…

After a decent shower, a G&T (bottle now finished), tortellini, and a glass of red, we formulated a plan of action for tomorrow.

Distance cycled so far: 8177km

Day 156.

Another day off the bike. But with good reason.

We woke up cold. Not just a bit chillier than usual, but actually cold. It was 6°C in the cabin, which is not frosty, and not European temperatures for this time of year, but a damn sight colder than the 20 odd degrees we have become accustomed to overnight. I had to dig out my fleece.

After breakfast and coffee in the cabin, then moving the van to our pitch for tonight we sauntered off to the viewpoint nearest to the campsite – about a five minute walk. The Blue Mountains are stunning. The views from the cliffs overlooking the National Park from Katoomba Falls really take your breath away.

We spent a while just in awe, looking at the view and taking far too many photographs. The cable car across the valley looks like it offers amazing views too, so possibly something for tomorrow.

There are loads of footpaths along the cliff tops and down into the valley. Today we opted to walk along the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, for the best view of the famous Three Sisters formation (actually part of the Seven Sisters). This took us past more view points (lookouts), more photographs, and more tourists to the Echo Point Lookout, where the view was indeed worth the walk. The coach loads of visitors was a bit overwhelming – I’ve got used to Australia being big and sparsely populated – but didn’t detract from the vista.

A walk further to as near as you can get followed, but as with many things they look better and more spectacular from a distance. We had a coffee in a café back near to Echo Point, then walked along the aptly named Panorama Drive back to the campsite.

After a bite to eat we ventured into Katoomba in the van. A bit lazy, but I’m trying to rest a bit, and we needed supplies. It’s a nice town, with independent shops and antique dealers which we browsed. The barbers however were closed. It was then that I remembered that it was Sunday, so of course they were. My haircut will wait. Aldi was open. As was the off-licence, so we can eat and drink. Back at the campsite we drank and ate – beer and a rice/chicken concoction that we improvised to be precise. It was very tasty.

We thought that the sunset over the gorges may be worth seeing, so as it was only a short walk we went back to the lookout. We were not disappointed.

We were going to wait until dark, as the Sisters are apparently floodlit, but after 20 minutes or so it was getting too cold, so we headed back. We’ll come again tomorrow night, but better prepared. Thus ended our day, cooped up in the van keeping warm. Great day.

Day 157.

I seem to be having more days off the bike than on it at the moment. As per usual I’ve got ahead of schedule, and we are not far from Sydney with days to spare, but this time with the added bonus of a) having my wife with me, and b) having lots of places to visit.

After a gentle start to the day, we walked around to the Scenic Way cable car station. It is so short that I thought I wouldn’t (couldn’t) cost much. How naïve am I. A one-price ticket gets you rides on both of the cable cars and the very steep train. No single tickets available. 66A$ per person. Ouch! I gave in and we got on board the big gondola that crosses the canyon in front of the Katoomba Falls, with great views of both the falls and the Three Sisters. Quite spectacular. Jane even managed to look down through the glass floor.

When we got off we had to cough up. Jane mentioned being over 60, so we were both charged pensioners rates which took the sting out of the price but made me feel old. We saved nearly 30$. After a cursory look around, we got on the railway down into the valley. We were reminded several (too many) times that it is the steepest railway in the world – a 52° incline. It was originally built for mining purposes in 1878, and was converted into a recreational ride for tourists in 1945 – the coal mine closed in 1932. It was impressive though.

Once at the bottom and below the tree canopy the temperature was refreshingly cool, the downside being a lack of view. We walked along the escarpment until the path closure in one direction, and until we got hungry and wanted to go back in the other direction. The flora and fauna (away from the tourists and dinosaur themed tatt) was beautiful. We saw an Eastern Yellow Robin, a Pheasant Coucal and a Grey Fantail, to name a few, and the Giant Tree Ferns were abundant.

To get back up the cliff we were going to walk. But since we had paid for the ride (and to save my knees) we took the cable car (more great views) followed by the big gondola back to our starting point. After the short walk back to camp we were very much ready for our lunch and a sit down. Any plans for the afternoon soon evaporated into book reading and relaxing, with a bit of planning thrown in. Not only for the next few days, but I’ve also started messaging people on Warmshowers.com about accommodation in Chile, and looking at routes when I’m there. I really ought to look for bike shops in Sydney for bike boxes (and more brake blocks and chamois cream). We also aren’t really sure where we will be for the next few nights.

After a chat with our young family neighbours from Berlin (and a Tooheys New beer), a simple sausage dinner was cooked in the camp kitchen. As the temperatures are not what we are used to (fleece nearly all day), from 2000hrs we were tucked up in the van.

Back on the bike tomorrow. Looking forward to it.