Dave and his Bike

Days 88, 89 & 90.

Day 88.

Another great day. Buffet breakfast (well toast for me) then a trip to a 7Eleven for some supplies and more water. Easy navigation out of town, then 14km until we sadly had to get back on the main arterial route dual carriageway. 20km went quite quickly, then we slid off on to much quieter scenic lanes across country.

The route finding got slightly trickier, but not too difficult – just more stopping and starting to check we were on the right track. The roads were excellent, even the one bit of ‘rough stuff’ was fun (albeit only about 500m long), and the tall palm trees provided some bits of shade to keep the sun off.

We stopped for a cold coke at a roadside stall, where a half metre lizard was scurrying around, then cruised on through the palm forests. It was obviously big business, as many small holdings were processing the coconuts – removing the husks by hand leaving piles of debris and piles of clean nuts. We passed through a couple of villages – one with a busy market in full flow, and had the rise and fall of crossing the railway a couple of times (I actually recorded a 4% incline!). Otherwise it was pretty flat. A couple of dogs had half-hearted attempts at a chase, but it all seemed a bit too much of an effort so they soon gave up.

Lunch was at a nice little roadside stop (chicken fried rice again), where we met three English cycle tourists on a similar trajectory to us. They left shortly before we did and we haven’t seen them since. Yet. We drifted across to the coast, then followed it almost all the way to our destination – Bang Saphan. The roads and views continued to impress.

The beach we were alongside for about 15km was gorgeous, and absolutely deserted.

We had planned to ride about 80km today, which turned into 89. Tomorrow’s 80km is now looking like 100+. Oh well, at least we are still enjoying it. I think we will both be ready for a day off though.

The hotel was another on the sea front, and another bargain – about £16 for both of us including breakfast. Dinner was a couple of hundred metres away, and also well priced. Another couple of bikes have appeared in the hotel foyer, both bearing Brittany flags. That could make for an interesting conversation over breakfast.

Route planning tonight developed into a potential change of plan. Once on the west of the country, the route to Phuket is mainly an unavoidable dual carriageway. We may head more due south, which would take us across the peninsula towards Krabi and Koh Lanta, then possibly catch a ferry from there out to the islands. Food for thought.

Mileage so far: 4902km

Day 89.

Breakfast was provided by the hotel, and fortunately quite early as we wanted to get a good start today. Chumphon is still over 100km away and could be a good location for a day off, which we both need I think. Our usual stop at a 7Eleven for snacks, and we were heading south again. Not much in the way of navigation today, as it was pretty straightforward, following the coast where we could.

The very flat roads started to give way to more rolling terrain. Nothing drastic, but quite a lot of 2 & 3% gradients, with the odd 5 or 6% stretch thrown in. As much as they made it a bit more interesting, they are a bit of a drain on the legs when it’s this hot and humid, and it’s the fifth day in a row of big-ish mileage.

Otherwise the scenery remained pretty much the same as the last few days; beaches, palm trees, bananas… it sounds a bit idyllic. Probably because it is.

Some of the palm plantations look like palm oil which is not great. There were also some rubber plantations, with the rubber being drained from the tree trunks. I didn’t get a photo.

Lunch was in a great little roadside stall, and we stayed out of the sun for a while before pressing on over the undulations to Chumphon, where Steve had found a lovely place for us to stay. I feel a bit guilty because I got a little bungalow and he’s in the hotel building. We thought mine was more expensive, but turned out not really so. Just before we got there, we passed a brilliant cycle shop, so I popped in to check it was open tomorrow as I need a couple of bits. It stocks Colnago, Trek, and other high end bikes and components, which seems a bit out of place in this town.

After booking in, we took a stroll into town, then went back to the hotel for pad Thai, which was ok but not fantastic. The Singha beers were rather pleasant though.

Day off tomorrow after 500km in the last five days. I’ve also just reached the 5000km mark since leaving home.

Mileage so far: 5008km.

Day 90.

Day off. Chumphon.

By the time I got up it was raining. Tropical raining. If it wasn’t for my toe which is still giving me grief, I would have run to the restaurant to meet Steve for breakfast. I got a bit wet instead, but at least it isn’t cold.

We dropped off some laundry at the reception, and re-grouped a bit later for route planning and decision making, not necessarily in that order. Due to several factors – weather, roads, distance still left to cover – we have opted (at this stage) to aim for Krabi instead of Phuket. The plan then is a bit of island hopping down to Langkawi which then leaves us about 1000 kilometres to Singapore. Achievable without being overwhelming. At least we hope so!

A walk into town followed (once the rain had stopped) for some admin stuff and a leg stretch. I got some chain lube, brake pads and more (hopefully better quality) socks. Steve got some cycling mitts. I didn’t get a new saddle as they didn’t really have what I wanted, and I’m not going to gamble on something that expensive in the hope that it’s comfortable, only to find it isn’t. My current one should get me to Singapore before it falls to bits. The perils of using a worn saddle on a big tour… My own stupid fault.

I’ve no idea why, but there are several old train locomotives parked up in the middle of the street here. They date back to the late 1800s. They provided the only photo opportunity of the morning.

A visit to the bank for currency exchange (Steve) followed by some lunch in town was the rest of our morning. We also bumped into the English family from a couple of days ago, who had just arrived in town and were looking for accommodation. There could be a pattern emerging.

The afternoon consisted of phone calls with family (Lottie + kettle + hot water bottle = A&E), and a minor bike service (as well as I could in my room) whilst thunder crashed around outside and the heavy rain came again.

Five hours later and it’s still raining hard, with lightening all around accompanied by the dull rumble of thunder. Over dinner (at the hotel again because of the weather) we discussed contingency plans; ride shorter days; wait here for another day; get the train to somewhere. At the moment we are still planning on 100km tomorrow, if the rain is lighter and/or more intermittent. Safety will be the overriding factor. Decision at breakfast.