Dave and his Bike

Days 85, 86 & 87.

Day 85.

Despite being excited about getting on the bike as early as we could, staying for the buffet breakfast was too tempting. We would only have had to stop early anyway. So after bacon and eggs, we were on the road just after 0800hrs. The traffic in the centre of the city wasn’t bad at all. The one-way streets however, were a bit of a navigational pain in the neck. I also forgot to switch my computer on, so I missed the first kilometre off my daily total. Oh well.

With a bit of stop start, and crossing one road on foot we were soon crossing the Rana IX Bridge and heading out towards Chom Thong and beyond. Unfortunately, not long after the dual carriageway began. On the map it looked like a small road in comparison to the major routes. In reality it was like avoiding the M1 and cycling on the A1 instead. There was a service road alongside it for most of the way which made it safer, but the noise and traffic fumes weren’t great. It remained that way for over 50 kilometres. The plus side was that it was a good road surface, really flat, and even a touch of tailwind. It was plenty warm enough – about 36°C – which Steve is having to adjust to, and I’m having to cope with and remember to drink enough.

We stopped for drinks, and then for lunch at Samut Songkhram after managing to leave the main road for 20 kilometres or so. A bowl of noodle soup at a roadside café, followed by a sandwich from the shop next door. We then had a trip around the town in an attempt to find a quiet road out, but gave up quite soon and headed back to the main road. It turns out that the train track market is here, of which we got a small and very chaotic glimpse after the train had just passed through.

A few swift kilometres later and we were off the dual carriageway. The last 15 kilometres of the day was much more pleasant, other than a couple of kilometres where the road had been planed off, making bike handling a bit more tricky, and we found a great little hotel / homestay / motel very easily. It’s great.

It backs onto the canal at a river junction, there’s a fish restaurant 10 minutes walk away, and the rooms are affordable (if not cheap). The scenery here is also much more as you would expect. Stunning.

Seafood fried rice (huge portions) and some sparkling water, and back in our rooms by 1830. I reckon Steve might sleep better tonight.

Mileage so far: 4595 km.

Day 86.

I had a good nights’ sleep despite waking a few times, and felt reasonably refreshed. Breakfast was included in the price of the accommodation, so we thought it would be rude not to. It was interesting to see what is eaten locally as there were no foreign tourists staying. First up was a bowl of rice and prawns in what I can only describe as soup. It was then accompanied by water melon and a slice of toast. Not what I would have chosen for breakfast but pleasant enough, even if I couldn’t eat all of the soup. The wall art in the breakfast room was very fitting.

We were on the road at around 0820hrs, with very simple navigation to start with – basically just following the road south. After crossing the estuary just outside the village, we were surrounded by water logged fields, and debated whether they were fish farms or not. Turns out they are salt farms, which we discovered from the information board in a viewing area. That then became obvious as some of the fields were white.

On occasion we were right on the coast, then would veer inland for a few kilometres. We stopped to look at some interesting sculptures behind the beach, then continued along a great cycle path (adjacent to the road) which went for miles. The scenery inland was changing, with palm trees, banana plants and hills in the distance. Temptations of things to come.

After about 70km, some of it alongside a dual carriageway again, we got to Cha-Am beach where we stopped for lunch. Away from Bangkok it is noticeable how much cheaper things are. The chicken fried rice was a bargain. We hung around for the best part of an hour, just to rest and recuperate.

After our extended lunch break, we had 30 or so kilometres left to do until the hotel Steve had found (his turn). We got a twin room for less than we paid each yesterday, so all good. A ten minute walk to the beach for dinner after some route planning was a nice leg stretch. Fried noodles and chicken. I’m working my way through the menu.

It was dark, so no particular views, but lovely all the same. Great day today. Another similar day planned tomorrow.

Mileage so far: 4701km.

Day 87.

Breakfast at 7eleven of cheese and ham toasties and a coffee, and on the road for around 0800hrs. For the first time the sun was out and the sky blue, and it was already 27°C. Always a promising start to my day. A bit of wiggling around to get out of town, then straight onto the main highway for a few kilometres. A great spot by Steve – a cycle path running alongside the road behind a line of trees (my excuse for not seeing it) which kept us away from the traffic for most of the limited time we were on it. Once on the smaller roads, the scenery got me quite excited. It is absolutely stunning.

From then on it just got better and better. Scenery, quiet roads, bridges over rivers and inlets, National Parks (Khao Sam Roi Yot), temples, statues, beaches, palm trees, monkeys, the list is endless. It was like cycling through a travel brochure with a bit of a tailwind. We met a Thai man on a ladies bike, tattoos on his face and a guitar strapped to his back. I got chatting with him as I passed by. He looked like he was just popping down the road – turns out he’s going a similar distance to us and has been riding for the last 20 days. Awesome. We passed each other a few times throughout the day. Nice bloke.

We struggled a little bit with finding some lunch. Our first attempt failed (beach either no bars). We settled initially for a cold drink and a cake from a small shack, but soon after found a better place serving hot food and swiftly devoured a plate of chicken fried rice.

Several locals were eating there, which is always a good recommendation. We’d covered over 70 kilometres by then, and worked out that we still had about 40 to go. Hard in the heat. The route made it more palatable though, as the scenery continued to impress. A few kilometres on the main road (unfortunate but fast) was the only downside, and we were soon emerging into a bay surrounded by impressive rock features and hills.

We stopped outside a hotel which we both thought we couldn’t afford. Turns out we could. We even paid a bit extra for a sea view. Not the best room, but the view makes up for it. After a short walk around town, we settled on dinner at the hotel. Fried beef with garlic and pepper. Excellent and good value. Early night. Both a bit shattered after three good days ride.

Mileage so far: 4812km.