Dave and his Bike

A few days in Bangkok.

Days 82, 83, 84.

Day 82.

My flight was marginally late arriving, which I didn’t mind as I knew I couldn’t check in to the hotel until later – again. Memories of arriving in Mumbai. Everything at the airport went smoothly, and I was soon outside ordering a taxi.

Immediately the difference was noticeable. Aside from the slight reduction in humidity, cars and bikes obeyed traffic regulations, no one used the horn, and the streets were free from litter. And cows.

I got to the hotel at around 0700hrs, and was pleasantly surprised when I was told that the room would be ready by 0900. I had a short stroll around the area, found the nearest 7eleven shop (most important), then settled down for a cup of tea.

Steve arrived in time for a coffee before the room was ready, the bikes (still boxed) went into storage, and we then managed a couple of hours sleep to recharge our batteries a bit after sleepless flights.

We started with a stroll down the Khao San Road by day, with its clothing and food stalls, stopped for a well earned Chang beer, then had a light lunch of spring rolls and dim sum.

The only task for the day was to rebuild the bikes, mainly to ensure that they were ok and that a visit to a bike shop wasn’t required. Steve’s handlebar bag mount proved to be a little stubborn, but otherwise all was good. Back in storage until Saturday.

It was soon time for the Khao San Road by night. A different world of music (very loud), beer, cocktails, and food. We stuck with beer and food. Pad Thai from a street vendor who we had watched cooking it, to be precise. It was excellent.

We then relocated to a small bar near to the hotel, with live music (Clapton covers) and a nice calm ambiance. We will probably go back tomorrow as we really enjoyed it. Early night. Absolutely shattered. Great to be back in Bangkok,

Day 83.

We had a lie in. I slept until about 0820hrs and was woken by my bladder. It’s an age thing. I had slept for over 10 hours, so obviously needed the catch up. Breakfast was included in the price of the hotel, so we went with no preconceived ideas, and I was pleasantly surprised by the choice and quality of the buffet. Everything from full English to croissants to Thai noodles and rice. It was a great start to the day. The coffee was ok but not great.

The plan for the day was to do the tourist stuff in the morning, then relax in the afternoon. So we headed off towards the Grand Palace. We were told by several tuk-tuk drivers that it was closed today as it’s the (previous) king’ birthday. I’d fallen for that before (drivers wanting to take you somewhere else), and chose to ignore them. I was justified in doing so, as the Emerald Buddha temple – the bit we really wanted to see – was open. It was also free to enter, which was a bonus, but also meant that it was very busy.

The temple complex is amazing. So many buildings and structures, most are heavily gilded, and/or covered in glazed ceramic or mirrored tiles. The effect is stunning, and you don’t know where to look next. The Emerald Buddha itself is a little bit underwhelming, partly due to its small size in comparison with others effigies around it, but it is also clothed which has the effect of making it look covered up. We couldn’t get near the actual palace, so perhaps the tuk-tuk drivers were right. We moved on, virtually next door, to the Wat Pho temples, home of the reclining Buddha. It is one of the oldest temples in Thailand, built before Bangkok was established as the capital of Thailand, probably between 1688 and 1703. Paying a 300 baht fee to enter meant that it was far more peaceful.

The temple holds the largest collection of Buddha statues in Thailand in addition to the massive 46m long reclining Buddha. I can easily believe that. They are everywhere. It is an impressive place. In addition to the size, the detail in the reclining Buddha is incredible; such things as the mother of pearl inlayed feet, and the murals all around the walls (which you could easily miss). You can also see each little square of gold leaf which the effigy has been painstakingly covered in.

Feeling quite hot, tired and a bit templed-out, we got a tuk-tuk back to the Khao San Road. A bit of shopping for sun cream, insect repellent, razor blades and socks was preceded by a Thai Iced Tea, and followed by some chicken fried rice (more pad Thai for Steve).

We dropped off our laundry at the tailors next to the hotel which will be ready tomorrow evening, meaning we are definitely here for another day. It also means that I’m in swimming shorts and a cycling jersey for the next 24 hours. Not the most impressive dress code. I’ve got some nice new socks though.

A quick swim in the rooftop pool (proper luxury) and it was soon time for an evening visit to the Khao San Road for dinner and a beer. We tried a different food stall / restaurant and I had a green curry. It wasn’t the best one I’ve ever had, but was tasty, and spicy in a different way to Indian food. Our second beer was a repeat of last night.

A/C room and bed. I hope Steve sleeps better and his body clock starts to catch up with the time zone change.

Day 84.

Slightly fitful sleep, but quite good all the same and I didn’t wake up until 0730hrs. Steve didn’t sleep well again. I was slightly more reserved at breakfast, saving another ‘full English’ for tomorrow when we will be cycling again. Soon after we decided to have a stroll around the locality, but in a different direction.

We both managed to buy a new shirt, then ventured into the Wat Bowonniwetwiharn Ratchaworawiharn temple complex, where a ceremony was taking place. It was something to do with a Thai Navy inauguration celebration, which involved a large number of Buddhist monks, and a smaller number of navy officers in uniform. I’m still not really sure what was happening, but feel privileged to have been able to witness it.

From there we went for a Thai tea, then lunch and a mango smoothie. A really chilled morning which I really enjoyed. After a short air-conditioned break at the hotel and having collected our laundry, we decided on a short walk to the nearest bike shop for some chain lube. Found the shop. None in stock. We did however find a small fort (Phra Sumen Fort) in a park next to the river which was very picturesque.

Once back at the hotel, the swimming pool was calling. We may not see one again for a while, so it would be rude not to use it.

We stayed local for dinner, choosing a restaurant a couple about a hundred metres away. Pad Kra Pao and a beer (or two) then a relatively early night. Quite excited about the prospect of cycling in Thailand tomorrow.