Dave and his Bike

Days 66, 67, 68, 69 & 70.

Day 66.

That was a challenging day.

I was on the road, without breakfast, for just after 0700hrs. I knew it was going to be a bit longer than usual – around the 100km mark – so decided to optimise the cooler conditions. It was great. Straight out of town, onto the right road, and enjoying the cool 19°C as the sun was still low in the sky. Barely any traffic either. I was enjoying myself so much I missed the next turn. It was only after about 10km when I had a routine map check that I realised my error. It wasn’t the end of the world as it probably only cost me a couple of kilometres. It did, however, set the tone for the rest of the morning, although subsequent deviations were not my fault.

I needed to cross the Tungabhra river, and had identified the dam at Hammigi as a suitable point. Both Google Maps and Map Out showed roads going along the river bank, so I headed to the river. At the first village I was told I had to go around to the next village by going back on myself. At the second village I was told the same. It appears that since the dam was built and the valley flooded, the maps have not been updated properly. So all-in-all more frustrating diversions. Mostly on shocking road surfaces – another theme of the day.

I got there eventually though. Not a particularly impressive dam (after all the effort I’d put in).

Once across the river the navigation was easy. The roads, however, varied between beautiful smooth, relatively new tarmac, to absolutely nightmarish tracks. On a bike it’s frustrating, as it breaks your rhythm completely. And vibrates everything horribly. My back light flew off (into many pieces) several times. At times it was hard to maintain 10 km/h. The stretches of bad stuff came in sections of about 5km at a time. Hard both physically and mentally.

I rolled into Kotturu at about 1600hrs. The first hotel was sadly full. They directed me to a lodging by the bus station. Cheap, but filthy. I mean really filthy. It would have to have been a last resort. My third attempt was more fruitful. 2.5km down the right road for tomorrow and a nice clean room with a ‘western’ toilet. The shower doesn’t work though, and there’s no WiFi. Again.

Whilst talking to Jane at about 1730hrs the electricity went off. I was told at about 2000 that the restaurant wouldn’t be opening, and there was somewhere a few hundred metres away that should be open. In the dark. I couldn’t be bothered, so relied on my emergency biscuits and an orange. When I had checked in, the guy showing me the place said I could put my bike in the adjacent lock-up, which I did. When I asked him how I would get it out early in the morning, he said ‘just take it – it’s never locked’. Under cover of power-cut-darkness I took it upstairs to my room.

By 2030 the power hadn’t come back on. I went to bed.

Mileage so far: 3892km

Day 67.

Another great day.

It didn’t start out so well though. When I woke up, the power was back on. The trade-off was that there was no water. I didn’t even bother trying to find someone to ask, but just packed up and left.

About 12 kilometres down the road I stopped in Ujjini for a much needed breakfast. The first stall I went to gave me tea, showed me what he was cooking, but then seemed reluctant to serve me and sent me across the road. No idea what that was about! The second place offered me samples of what they served so I could choose which one I wanted – great service, and one benefit of not understanding the language! So a plate of rice with battered, deep fried chillies it was. Not your standard first choice breakfast, but really good.

It then turned into a bit of a mileage day. Nothing of particular note scenery-wise, easy navigation, gentle climbs. The headwind was still there though. At Jagalur I picked up some water and snacks. At Nayakanahatty I filled my bottles again and had an interesting ‘chat’ with a local old guy whilst photographing the statue of Sri Guru Thipperudra Swamy. Neither of us understood a word.

When I was about 10 kilometres from Challakere, my target for the day, a couple of guys on a motorbike made drinking gestures at me (if that makes sense?). Over the last few days, in addition to the usual ‘which country’ question, I have been offered bottled water and fruit from motorcyclists which is really kind, and quite humbling. These two today though went a couple of hundred metres up the road and stopped in an entrance, then beckoned me across. I’m normally very cautious, but went along as my gut feeling was that they were genuine. I was right. They sat me down, one of them cut up some guava (with a particularly rusty looking blade) and shared it with me whilst the other went across the field to a palm tree and picked two coconuts. We shared fresh coconut milk and some of the coconut itself. They even offered to charge my phone. After a round of selfies (obviously), I went on my way, not before offering some rupees for the refreshments, at which they looked horrified. It’s difficult to know what to do, and not insult people sometimes.

The last 10 kilometres was easy – even slightly downhill. My first choice hotel had rooms, and a negotiable price. I’ve ended up with a suite of clean rooms with A/C. No hot water though. There’s always something.

Despite it not being too long today, my legs are quite sore, which is probably a result of yesterday’s ride. The bits of bad (or non-existent) road surface take their toll – my hands are also a bit painful and my saddle sore is back (although that’s probably just the heat build up).

Dinner was room service! There’s no restaurant at the hotel, and when I asked at reception they said the nearest one was too far to walk, asked me what I wanted, then delivered it to my room half an hour later. With a clean plate, glass and napkins. I can’t complain about that! It was nice food too.

Early night again as I’m quite weary.

Mileage so far: 3977km.

Day 68.

I was a little bit later starting today. Mainly because I didn’t wake up quite so early, which was nice. I was still on the bike just after 0730hrs though.

I had to ride through town to get on the right road, which gave me the opportunity to pick up some food and drink early on. After leaving Challakere there was no more navigation necessary as it was one road to Pavagada. My first stop of the day for some breakfast of potato fritters came quickly, after only about 8km in Dodderi. A small family run stall with nice food and friendly faces. Soon after, I did deviate a little bit from the main road as the minor road was a straighter line. That put me on a red gravel track for about 5km which was actually nice as it made the morning a bit more interesting. It also took me across another small dam and through a tiny little hamlet. There are a noticeable number of new palm plantations around here, which I think are for palm oil – this area is big in the oil industry. I don’t think that primary forest has been sacrificed for this purpose – at least I hope not.

After about 30km I stopped in Parasurampura for some more fluid. Whilst buying from one stall, I was being shouted at by people at a stall the other side of the road. Being randomly shouted at normally causes me to ignore people, but on this occasion I felt obliged to go and speak with them. Essentially all they wanted was to practice their English, buy me a cup of tea, and take selfies. They were a friendly bunch.

On leaving the village I saw some monkeys, which made me realise that I hadn’t seen any for the past few days. There were several, and obviously comfortable in close proximity to humans.

A few kilometres further on, and the scenery started to change. The flatlands were gradually giving way to rocky outcrops, some of which were quite big. That, reasonably obviously, meant that I was climbing again. Not much, but a very gradual climb for about 15km – the sort of thing that means that you can’t freewheel. All good training!

A couple of sections of roadworks, where the surface is being replaced kept me on the ball with my bike handling skills and is gradually hardening the skin on my hands. I then had a steady descent for a few kilometres into town. I had one of the ‘yes we have a room – no we don’t’ scenarios to start with, then found a good hotel with a great hot shower and A/C. A bit more than I like to spend, and a slightly unhelpful reception – won’t give me the WiFi password even though there is clearly WiFi. Sadly the restaurant here is also closed. Seems to be the theme for this week.

After showering and my daily kit wash, I had a walk into town to do some admin jobs. The third ATM I tried actually gave me some cash, but not much so I’ll need to go again somewhere tomorrow. I also picked up some food stuff for a bedroom picnic, as I fancied a change from the norm. There is also a fort here. I couldn’t actually find any part of it to visit particularly, but some of the old walls are in the town centre, and the fortifications snake up and down the hillside quite impressively

The paneer pastries I bought were good, with a bottle of water to go with them. I can’t remember the last time I had a beer – probably in Goa.

Mileage so far: 4058km.

Day 69.

Woke at the same time as every other day, around 0600hrs. Took my time getting ready, as it’s not far today, but I was still on the bike well before 0800. I stopped almost immediately in the town centre for a great breakfast of poori (very thin inflated bread) and medu vada (gram flower fritters) – essentially pancakes and doughnuts – with what tasted like warm hummus. A cup of tea from the stall opposite finished my meal nicely.

It was an easy ride from there. No climbing worth mentioning and good (enough) road surfaces. I passed a couple of pretty temples on the way, which I thought were worth a picture, but in my ignorance I can’t remember exactly where they were, or who they are dedicated to.

The litter and squalor continued in every village, and the bits in between. I try not to mention it all the time because it’s getting a bit boring, but it is a constant feature everywhere I go. The locals seem either oblivious to it, or resigned to the fact that it not going to change. Shame really.

Once in Hindupur / Hindupura / Hindupuram (depending on where it’s written – pick your favourite spelling), I found the GR Lodge easily and negotiated the price of a room for one night, possibly two. I have read about impressive temples and monuments in this area, and I’ve got plenty of time to get to Chennai so there’s the opportunity to explore. I need to do my research better. Having settled in to my room I looked at the map to find the temples. They are 14 kilometres away in Lepakshi. Just as well I’ve only paid for one night. I think I’ll ride there in the morning and spend the afternoon sightseeing.

After cursing my stupidity, I went out for a wander. The streets are very busy with market stalls and shops which spill out across the footpath and into the road. It’s a bit of a pedestrian’s nightmare, albeit very interesting. I had a couple of tasty samosas from a street stall, then stopped for a cup of tea in quite a smart café (still only 10 rupees). Armed with a couple of bottles of water I went back to my room to rest.

My evening meal was at a recommended restaurant a few hundred metres away. Vegetable biryani with a naan and some chips – a bit of a carb overload. I kept having to refuse a curry to go with it all! Another short walk around town, then bed for the night.

Mileage so far: 4104km

Day 70.

A sort of day off.

Due to yesterday’s amateur research error, I had a short ride this morning. Again I stopped on the edge of town for some fritters for breakfast before the gentle ride to Lepakshi. En-route I passed a small lake covered in lotus flowers which was very picturesque, before riding into the small town. I did a short recce on the bike, then found the hotel I had earmarked for the night – even though it was only 0930hrs. The rooms were grubby and overpriced. I didn’t stay, despite the owner eventually saying ‘how much do you want to pay?’ as I rode off.

I resigned myself to another 30km ride later in the day as I didn’t think there was anywhere else, so I locked my bike up outside the big temple complex and did the tourist thing. I moved my bike from its initial location as a local lad told me that if I left it there the monkeys would raid my bags!

The Shri Veerabhadra Swamy temple was impressive. Very intricate carvings in granite. I liked it. It dates back to the 16th century, so is not as old as some.

After half an hour in the temple, I went looking for one of the other sights of Lepakshi – a monolithic bull. I found it, right next door to another hotel. This one was more reasonably priced and a bit cleaner. Having booked in, refreshed myself, and had a cup of tea, I went on the tourist trail again. The monolith is a seated representation of Nandi – the bull incarnation of Lord Shiva. Again, an impressive carving (6m high, 10m long).

Virtually opposite the big bull is another tourist attraction. Perched on top of a massive boulder is an eagle statue. I must say I was more impressed with the geological feature than the rather cheesy eagle, but I paid my 10 rupees and climbed up the 200 steps to the top, where there were great 360° views of the countryside.

There is also a large footprint in the stone at the top, not as big as one in the temple (which I missed), but supposedly from either Sita or Hanuman. Believe what you will. On the way down, I encountered some interesting lizards, some who posed for photographs.

A further mooch around the village (I wouldn’t say it’s big enough to be a town) for some refreshment by way of cold drinks and onion bhaji, then back to the hotel for a lie down in the coolness of my room.

Another brief stroll around the village later in the afternoon (for some exercise) was followed by a paneer masala at the hotel, which was again room service (they actually knocked on my door to ask if I wanted dinner). All in all a steady and relaxing day. Back on the bike properly tomorrow.

Mileage so far: 4126km