Dave and his Bike

Days 54, 55, 56 & 57.

Day 54.

That was a brutal day. It started well enough with a cup of tea at the homestay before we set off. It hadn’t been the best night. The bed wasn’t exactly what I would call clean, and I suspected bed bugs so slept in my sheet sleeping bag which is a bit restrictive. In addition, almost immediately after going to sleep we were woken by a bat in the room. Quite a good sized one at that. Clayton caught it in a towel and removed it. Not sure how or when it got in.

Once on the road the ups and downs started. Not massive, but repetitive 100m climbs with 10% sections again, one after another. The first before the ferry, and more after. As it got hotter they got harder and progress was really slow. I had hoped that between 0800 and 1200 I would have covered 50km, allowing for a break for an hour or two, but we had only managed 30km.

A second ferry crossing and many climbs, we stopped for something to eat far too late, and Clayton was on the verge of collapse. Fortunately we only had 16km to do after that, and the last bit along the beaches was relatively flat and easy.

It was hard, but we still saw some amazing sights: villages, river crossings, wildlife. The sort of stuff you would imagine in rural India. I nearly ran over a bright green snake at one point, just missed it as it reared up in the road! I have noticed that there are quite a lot of swastikas displayed. My quick Google research tells me that it is used as a Hindu sign of prosperity and good luck, with none of the usual western connotations. Some of the road surfaces were absent, making the progress even slower, especially on climbs and descents.

I am questioning my strategy at the moment, and considering the option of getting a train to Goa. It’s either that or start really early (0600?) to avoid the heat. The mileage I have been doing doesn’t feel sustainable (by me) in these conditions I don’t think – not if I want to enjoy the trip more. I’m absolutely battered by the end of the day. I’ll make a decision in the morning. That said, the worst hilly stuff may be behind me! Clayton is doing an amazing job with a spindle instead of a pedal. And he rides in flip-flops. Idiot.

I was really hoping for a better hotel tonight. Not much luck. We’ve paid more, but it’s still not brilliant. The holidays around Diwali drive the prices up for this week, which I suppose is to be expected.

Great butter chicken and chapatis tonight. Cheap too! There are loads of restaurants within two minutes of the hotel. Spoilt for choice.

Mileage so far: 3237km.

Day 55.

Not the best sleep, and up at 0545hrs. A good result really, as we were on the road for just after 0700. We stopped after a few kilometres for a chai and breakfast, but our language inadequacies meant that after about 10 minutes we left with a bottle of mango juice and nothing else!

So breakfast was a bit further on (after about 22km). We found some vada pav and chai in Ratnagiri which was excellent. Also loaded up with snacks.

The road was similar to the last couple of days, down to a river crossing, up the other side, and repeat. The climbs were a bit smaller, around 70m, but still 10%ers. The early start, however, meant they were much more manageable. Until it got hot. Properly hot again.

The change of plan included stopping around midday for a couple of hours, which is what we did. A roadside restaurant provided welcome cold drinks and vegetable thali, an assortment of dishes with rice. The second in a couple of days and very good.

Starting again just before 1500hrs, we only had 18km until our identified hotel. On the plus side, it was marginally cooler (but barely); on the downside there was a 150m climb before we got there – one of the biggest so far in India.

The Palm Springs Lake Resort sounds quite grand, and I was fully prepared for disappointment. However, it’s the best place I’ve stayed so far. Clean, smart, friendly hosts, breakfast included. And stunning views for once.

Our evening meal was also provided, at a cost. A mixture of fish and vegetarian dishes…. They are also doing a load of washing for us, so everything will be clean again.

Overall, a much better day on the bike. I’m resigned to doing shorter distances and taking my time. I also feel like I am acclimatising more each day, which is to be expected. The train option may be taken later, across some of central India depending on conditions and accommodation availability – but that was always part of the plan!

Mileage so far: 3305km

Day 56.

Great day. Mostly.

Since our hosts were providing breakfast at 0730, we decided that a shorter day of around 50km was feasible, and allowed us to keep out of the midday heat. Breakfast was a bit early, and really tasty: melon, bananas, rice pancakes, and potato bhaji. With cups of tea.

Off by 0815, and we found that the slight breeze kept the temperature down a bit. Linked with slightly less hilly roads and a good road surface, and the 50km estimate was achieved before lunch, which we had in Devgad. We made the decision to aim for Achara, but village hop and if we saw something nice we would stop.

However… at about 70km the game changed. Having stopped for a breather / map check / gulp of water, the moment Clayton pushed on his ‘pedal’, it snapped. With a loud bang. My spanner wouldn’t shift the remains of it, so it was game over for today. I did the gentlemanly thing, and left him there. To be fair, he did say not to stay with him. There was not much point, as I would have to ride anyway.

I aimed for a little hotel at 83km, which turned out to be full. So on I went. My legs felt good and I was enjoying the ride despite the failing light. The first hotel I found on the sea front was perfect. Clean, smart, affordable, right opposite the beach. Room with a view.

So, besides the dramas of the day, I felt like I enjoyed India more. The acclimatising has continued too. We stopped at temples, tried to take photos of monkeys (failed) and swarms of dragonflies (also failed), and generally felt more chilled out.

I’m not sure, but I think the air pollution is a lot less here. Either that or I’m getting used to it. I hope it’s not the latter.

The views from the countless bridges I have crossed I will never tire of; the ‘which country are you from’ question from car drivers and moped riders still makes me smile; the waves and smiles from nearly everyone who passes me make me grin; the conversation at 40kmh on a descent with a moped rider about Joe Root and Virat Kolhi (cricketers) made me laugh. Yesterday, I smiled and waved at a group of women riding in the back of a truck. They all grinned and waved back, then sheepishly hid their faces. A lifetime memory for me. The food also continues to impress.

Dinner at the hotel tonight was a kingfish thali, a change from the pomfret I’ve had a few times, but still good. It was accompanied by the first beer since Mumbai. I have decided (before the beer) to stay here for two nights. I’ve not had a break for six days and covered nearly 500km in the heat, the hotel is lovely, and there’s a beach opposite. I can still afford a day off somewhere in Goa (not quite there yet!) if I feel like it.

Mileage so far: 3405km

Day 57.

Day off. Because I can.

After a reasonably good night’s sleep I finally woke up at about 0800hrs. I took the easy option and had breakfast at the hotel – fried eggs and bread (i.e. sandwich) with a coffee.

I then went for a walk down the litter-strewn beach, with the acrid smell of burning plastic in my nostrils. Don’t get me wrong, I love this place. I just think that with minimal effort and a bit of civic pride it could be so much better. I had an interesting conversation on the subject with Sanjeev, my host from a couple of nights ago. He said that a lot of Indians go to western countries where they really appreciate the discipline and cleanliness. They then come back to India and ‘wreck the place’ (his words). I can’t disagree. I’m sure more could also be done at government level to encourage a change. It would be easy for me to wax lyrical about the beautiful scenery, and post the full Instagram experience photos, but I’d rather be honest.

That said, I had a lovely walk down the beach and around Malvan. I watched the emptying of nets of the morning catch, strolled around the fish markets, roadside stalls, bustling tourist businesses and beaches, which was great. I bought some linctus for my rattling chest from a pharmacy (tastes like Benylin) which I’m sure has been brought on by the air quality.

I stopped in a small restaurant for a second breakfast of mango juice and some samosas followed by a cup of tea, then bought some cookies from a little bakery before heading to the Rajkot Fort at the end of Malvan beach. I was turned away by police officers (or military – not sure), as no public are allowed there. No idea why not, it doesn’t seem to be used for anything.

Back at the hotel I sampled the cookies, had a nap, then had another wander around, before heading back to the hotel again and going for a quick swim. The Arabian Sea is very warm – I’ve had cooler baths before. It is very shallow though. The water wasn’t too clear, probably as it’s so sandy and there’s a lot of activity in the bay. It was nice to be in the sea for a while.

I’ve also spent some time today looking at where to go next week. My initial focus since leaving Mumbai has been to head down the coast to Goa, and I haven’t really thought too much about my route across to Chennai – other than avoiding Bengaluru. The Mollem National Park looks like it’s worth a visit so maybe that will be a good start.

Dinner was another thali. This time I went for the prawns which were very tasty. The only complaint was that it took an hour and a half to get served, so I was a bit grumpy by the time it arrived.

Looking forward to getting back on the bike in the morning. It’s 90+km to Calangute, so probably a day and a half if I take it steady as there are quite a few small climbs. We’ll see.