Dave and his Bike

Days 48, 49 & 50.

Day 48.

The flight had been a bit late taking off, so didn’t land until late. I wasn’t worried, as it was still only 0600hrs so I didn’t expect to be allowed to check in to the hotel until much later.

Entry through immigration was easy. The officer was very friendly and sat chatting with me – just as well there wasn’t much of a queue. Helpful airport staff showed me where to get an Uber, and I was away in no time. The driver didn’t speak English, so it was a peaceful journey.

First impression of Mumbai was the pollution. There’s a very definite haze hanging over the city. The obvious poverty also stood out, with shanty type structures at the side of every road. A 20 minute and £6.50 ride got me to the hotel. Not quite what I was expecting. I think expensive for what it is. I’ll reserve judgement until I’m not quite so shattered and full of cold. I was told at 0700 that I could check in at 1200, which is fair enough. I had a weary walk around the immediate vicinity, then unboxed and rebuilt my bike – as much to make sure it’s ok as anything else. It is. My room was ready for me at 1130 (I’ll take that as a win), so I got a couple of hours sleep.

It’s Diwali – the festival of light – today. I thought I would try to find out if there were any public celebrations going on in the centre of the old town, so I got a taxi once it had gone dark. The area around the Flora Fountain is mainly businesses, so was quiet but still lit up for Diwali.

I walked the nearby streets until I met Ali, a local guide who offered to show me the markets in Colaba, where it would be busy. I knew it was going to cost me, but since I didn’t have a clue where to go I thought it worthwhile. We walked. A lot. He was right though, it was very busy. There was no specific celebration going on, just really busy markets and the occasional firework being set off in the street. I certainly saw more than I would have done without Ali, as some of the alleyways and passages we went down I certainly wouldn’t have done on my own.

We also passed the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, illuminated for the festivities. It is supposedly one of the best (and most expensive) hotels in India. It was also one of the locations of the 2008 terror attacks and siege during which many people were killed.

We ended up at a little restaurant in the Fort area. My first curry of the trip, a tikka masala, did not disappoint. Neither did the Kingfisher beer.

A short taxi ride back to the hotel and I crashed out. Not much sleep followed by 12km on foot- I was tired.

Day 49.

November 1st.

A reasonable nights sleep. Woke a few times, but slept in late. Ali had tried to convince me last night to join another one of his (expensive!) walking tours today, including taxi rides to other parts of the city. In addition to the expense, I don’t really want to be shepherded around today. I know it would be very interesting and informative, but basically it’s not for me. Mainly the money. He is difficult to say no to – I keep getting messages from him.

Breakfast was late, around 1030. Samosas which were very good, and a cup of chai – also good. I stayed in until around 1430, then headed back south in a taxi. My task for today was to suss out the ferry to Mandwa – will it take bicycles? The number of people around the Gateway of India was crazy. Possibly the Diwali effect, but I’m not sure. After talking to several ‘officials’ at the ferry gate who couldn’t answer my question, I was assured by the guy selling tickets that my bike will not be a problem. No doubt I’ll find out for sure on Sunday morning…

The gateway was built in 1911 to commemorate the arrival of King George V and Queen Mary. Amusingly it was not finished in time for their visit. From there I headed back towards the Colaba markets, but was accosted on the way by a nice lady who started off by saying ‘I don’t want any money’. Cynically I ducked into a coffee shop for a cold drink and a coffee. She was still waiting when I came out and wanted to show me her shop, proving that my cynicism wasn’t unfounded. That was until I told her I wouldn’t buy anything. She soon left. It’s frustrating, but I feel that everyone who is nice to me wants something, usually money. The coffee was nice though, especially as it was an air conditioned café which allowed me to cool down a bit too.

I then drifted north, thinking I would walk for a while, about as far as Victoria Station, then get a taxi back. The number of people didn’t diminish. It was crazy, and very sweaty. The humidity here is insane, and after a while I was soaked to the skin with my own sweat. An attractive look!

The Victoria Station building is impressive, both in size and architectural feature. I contemplated getting a train back to Byculla, mainly for the experience, but the queues were long and the platform signs confusing. So for the sake of a 13 pence train ticket I gave up and carried on walking.

I passed through various markets, all themed – food, clothing, fabric, household goods. Even to the extent that men’s and women’s clothing seemed to be in different areas of the city. I also tripped over the Jama mosque with its very decorative minaret. Not really sure where I was by then (possibly near the Crawford market).

By the time I thought I’d better get a taxi, it was less than 2 kilometres back, so I kept walking. I popped into a pharmacy and spent a few rupees on paracetamol and tissues as my cold is bugging me. Once back at the hotel I sat in my air conditioned room for a while, then put on a dry shirt and headed around the corner for food. Tonight’s option was butter chicken which was very good. That, a garlic naan and a Kingfisher cost about £7, which is good value, but not cheap for here I don’t think. But then I did opt for an air conditioned restaurant!

It’s now 2145 and the firecrackers are still going off all around. Thankfully I have ear plugs.

Day 50.

Intermittent sleep last night, but I still feel quite refreshed. I’m properly looking forward to getting back on the bike tomorrow. I’m sure that will change after the first hot and humid five minutes!

Read my book for a bit, then went for a chai and some street food. I found some vada pav, which are a potato based, battered, fried affair (fritter?) served in a bun. I watched them being made and they were piping hot, so as safe as I could hope for. They were also slightly spicy and very tasty. They could become a staple!

Back in my room, I did a bit of washing which should easily be dry by tomorrow, then read some more. The heat and air quality is all a bit draining; I’m sure that India’s second largest city has much more to offer than I have seen, but I’ve had a taste of it and am happy with that for now.

After a bit of a nap, I did go for a walk. As much as anything it was to recce some of my route through the city tomorrow morning. Hopefully the traffic won’t be too bad. In addition, it was to see a bit more of Mumbai. It wasn’t the prettiest of areas to walk through, just more of the same in regard hustle and bustle, traffic, street food and humidity. So no photos.

I think that the vitamin C tablets (thanks Liv), garlic and some decent rest have sorted out my cold, as I’m feeling much better now. Still a bit of a sore throat but that’s probably the air quality and air conditioning.

I went to the same restaurant tonight as last night and was welcomed by the staff, as I suppose I do stand out a bit in this area. This time I tried the mughlai. Not my favourite, but nice all the same. I’m trying to work my way through all of the options! FaceTime with Jane back in my room, and a bit of route and potential accommodation planning for tomorrow. The Diwali fireworks continue.

Overall Mumbai has been very, erm, interesting. There are some must-see historic places to visit, the people are friendly and the food good. The pollution and general scruffiness of the place takes some getting used to and can be quite depressing and unpleasant. I’ve still enjoyed myself here though, and am looking forward to the next few weeks travelling through other parts of India.